May 5, 2016

Customizing the info I see in Loupe View in Lightroom



When you’ve got an image open in Lightroom and you double-click on it, you enter into Loupe View. Loupe view is nice because you can zoom in and scroll around to check out your image which is really handy before you take it into the Develop module and work on it.  The information you see hovering over your photo is called Info Overlay. If you don’t see any info here just tap the Letter I on your keyboard. If nothing happens you might have to  hold the Shift key and tap the I key.  I always took this for granted but some people do not know they can actually choose what info appears over your image. This info shown here can be very helpful. You actually have three choices here that you can scroll through. 

The first one is usually just your image with no data, then you have two other views that you can change to your own personal preferences. I have one set up with shoot date, time, and camera and I have the other one set up with shutter speed, ƒ- stop, ISO and lens settings. There are a ton of different settings that you can choose from.

To change these settings, press and hold the Control key and tap the letter J on your keyboard. A dialog box pops open and up on the top you’ll see Grid View and Loupe View. Make sure your in Loupe View you see two sections called Loupe Info 1 and Loupe Info 2. Click on the dropdown menus and play around with them, I’m sure you’ll find options that will work great for you. Just find something you like for each and close the dialog box and your all set…..Nice huh?

March 26, 2012

Ten Quick Tips To Take Better Photos

1.      Know Your Camera – I’ll say it again, know your camera. Does this sound familiar? These days’ people go out and buy the latest and greatest digital camera out there, come home, rip open the box, and then proceed to fiddle with the device. Sometimes they might briefly flick through the camera manual and then they never look at it again? Not a good idea! If you buy a digital camera, you owe it to yourself to understand its ins and outs. Take some time to read the manuals. I always carry my manuals in my camera bag. Learn how to control exposure, how to use different camera modes and how to use the flash if it has one. The knowledge you gain about the camera will be invaluable when you're out in the field taking those special photos. Even if you’re an old pro and are experienced with photography, every new camera has new and improved features that will probably surprise you.


      2.  Shoot in the highest or largest quality file your camera can produce. (preferably large RAW mode)  You can always reduce the file later, but you can't always make it bigger.  Why buy a 16 or 20 megapixel camera if you’re not going to take advantage of all those pixels? People say they don’t want to fill their cards up but face it, these days you can get a 16 GB card for as low as $10 on the Internet.  Shooting larger files also helps if you’d like to zoom in on a specific part in your photo and crop your shot while retaining a quality image.


    3.  Rule of thirds and composition – One of the most popular 'rules' in photography is the Rule of Thirds. It works like this: Imaginary lines are drawn dividing the image into thirds both horizontally and vertically, sort of like a tic-tac-toe game. You place important elements of your composition where these lines intersect. But like all things, rules are meant to be broken. Sometimes when you compose your shot, you either need to move your subject around or get in closer yourself. Try to frame it so that your intended content fills most of the picture area. Remember, as photographer Rick Sammon says:  ”the name of the game is to fill your frame”.


    4.  Tripods and Ballheads – I consider these “must have’s” for anyone who wants to try to take better landscape shots or for taking group photos.  They also come in handy when shooting in dim light to avoid camera shake or when you’re shooting macro style photography.  A couple useful tips when shooting on a tripod, try to use the lowest ISO and remember to turn off Vibration Reduction or Image Stabilization on your lenses (if they have this feature) or else they will try to find some movement and that can also cause some vibration in itself.


5.  Cable Release cords.  If you want really tack-sharp landscape photos, then you definitely want to use a cable release cord. Believe it or not, just pushing the shutter button will cause the camera to move slightly. Remember, if you’re out shooting and forgot yours, you can always use your cameras self-timer feature in a pinch. These days just about every Digital Camera has this feature. 



    6.  Get down to their level - This is a great tip if you’re shooting kids or pets (and even flowers)  Next time your shooting photos of your kids, get down on one knee (or on the ground) and shoot at their eye level. You’ll be amazed at how much better your shots look. 




    7.  Lock the focus – Sometimes your subject is not in the center of the picture, in these cases, you might need to lock the focus to create a sharp picture. Usually you can lock the focus in three steps. First, center the subject and press and hold the shutter button halfway down. Second, reposition your camera (while still holding the shutter button) so the subject is away from the center. And third, finish by pressing the shutter button all the way down to take the picture. Most cameras these days will let you change the focal point (or points) in the camera for times like this, but I always have my center focal point active so it’s easier for me to just recompose this way. In these images of the geese, the red box shows where the focus was locked by the camera. Using my method will avoid that mistake and ensure your focus is correct.

I personally have all my DSLR's set up for Back-Button focusing which is an even more accurate focusing mode, but that is a whole lesson in itself. To find out about this feature or to see if your camera will allow you to set it up this way, Google Back-Button focusing for your camera model, you just might like it yourself. 

   
   8.   Try to use natural light and take lots of pictures - Digital cameras are great for this. You can experiment by taking as many test shots as you like using various camera settings, compositions, etc. You also get instant feedback by way of the LCD preview screen. If you don't like the shot, you can delete it right away. For this image of the Christmas tree (taken in Bryant Park in New York City) I wanted the natural light. I knew I’d have a little motion blur with the people walking by unless I pumped the ISO out of site so I kept it at 400 and that was ok with me. Remember the rule, “Practice Makes Perfect”.


9.  Using flash outdoors - In photography, everything is about the light.  Flash allows you to take control during those times when you don't have the luxury of great natural light. Become proficient at carrying and using flash outside and you’ll be able to take your photography to new heights. Using a little fill-flash when shooting back-lit subjects can save the day and help fill in all those dark spots, like under the eyes for example.  


  10. Take some vertical pictures – Are you one of those people who never shoot any vertical photos?  All sorts of things look better in a vertical format, anything from a lighthouse near a cliff, the Statue of Liberty or your grand-daughter jumping in a puddle. Next time you’re out shooting make a conscious effort to shoot some vertical pictures too! 

    These are just a few tips and ideas to help you take better photos. Look for another set of tips soon. Like all things, practice makes perfect.  Don’t be afraid to take a bunch of shots or to shoot something different, you might just find your own little niche.
    
Remember, as always, keep shooting and have some fun!
   

March 20, 2009

Photography Tips From a Pro on Shooting in Low Light


If you are shooting wide open, which is at the camera's largest aperture, your depth of field will be correspondingly shallow. That means your focus is going to be even more critical than otherwise. Pick a point that needs to be sharp and really pay attention to keeping that point sharp. Generally, if you are shooting people, the most important thing to keep sharp is the eyes. When I am shooting people I focus on the eyes, shoot, re-focus and shoot again...and then do it all over again. I can't tell you how much I hate to be editing and find that I have a potentially great shot, but out of focus eyes ruin the picture. I have found that if I am worried about an image not being sharp, I am usually right. Pixels are cheap...shoot enough to make sure you have your shot!
Shooting for stock, know your equipment, know your agency
If you are shooting with a stock agency in mind it is good to know just how high you can push your ISO before you reach the point where the agency is going to reject the image. That means you have to know both your own equipment and the standards of the agency. I was once shooting from the interior of a jeep on a mountain road in China. The scene, road-building equipment clearing a landslide, was lit by the headlights of the cars waiting for the road to be cleared. I shot the scene, hand held, but braced against the head-rest, at an ISO of 1600 with a Canon 1ds. Man did I work on that image in post (processing the digital files)! They accepted it too. With the newer cameras I have no qualms about shooting at 400, I am comfortable shooting at 800 and don't think 1600 would really be such a stretch. But don't take my word for it... do some testing!
Exposure and more
RAW (the file format native to the camera) has been talked to death, but keep in mind that it is more akin to negative film than transparency film and I personally find that I can safely get another stop to a stop-and-a-half in post-shoot processing. Shoot RAW, not jpeg! As far as exposure, keep your histogram as far to the right as possible without clipping (going off the edge). If you loose your highlights (which are on the right hand side of the histogram) you probably can't get them back. I guess in that way a digital file is like transparency film.
I am not a big user of on-camera flash, but it can be a real life-saver. I suggest a good starting point is to set your flash to under expose by two-thirds of a stop. That can help bring out details without overpowering the image...and looking like you used on-camera flash! If you do use on-camera flash it is generally a good idea to bounce it or at least put some sort of diffuser over it.
Use movement to your advantage
Another thing to keep in mind is that a little movement in your image isn't necessarily an image killer. Sometimes you can make it work to your advantage. A year ago I was shooting in the train station in Mumbai, India. The station is indoors and while it wasn't exactly gloomy, it still qualifies as low light. I put the camera over my head as high as I could hold it and fired off a half-dozen frames at an eighth of a second. I only shot six frames because at that point a machine gun carrying police officer politely but firmly informed me that photography in the train station was forbidden. That image, in which everything has movement, even the lamp posts, has already sold a number of times as a stock picture with Getty Images (1377). Sometimes movement can make an image more dynamic and help it convey a mood or message.
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